Funny story. I actually meant to post this on May the Fourth, but I got a teeny tiny bit sidetracked by a little event called the Met Gala. So I’m here almost two months later with the finished post. It’s the thought that counts, right?
Princess Leia was my idol growing up. I’ve been fascinated by her and her iconic wardrobe since I was a kindergartener, and something I love about her is that she always dresses for the occasion. She’s a princess, but she’s practical. Her costuming always takes into account the places she’s visiting, and she perfectly blends fashion with function.
Leia was a really progressive character way back in the olden days (the 70s), and her costumes are an extension of this. Sci-fi has a reputation as a bit of a boys’ club, and female characters are often costumed for the male gaze. I’m looking at you, Barbarella.
But Leia isn’t just eye candy. Sure, she’s pretty, and she begins the first film as a bit of a damsel in distress, but she’s also a role model. A skilled warrior and diplomat, Leia is a force to be reckoned with.
This post will focus on Leia’s costumes from the original trilogy because I’m honestly not a huge fan of the costuming in the sequels. I find Leia’s costuming far more interesting in the original trilogy, especially because she’s often the only woman onscreen. The Star Wars franchise has gotten a lot more diverse since then, but Leia remains the original blueprint for how women dress in a galaxy far, far away.
A New Hope
Leia only has two costumes in the 1977 film, both designed by John Mollo. Writer and Director George Lucas didn’t want the costumes in the film to resemble the stereotypically “spacey” look of other sci-fi worlds. Instead, he wanted to focus on highlighting the difference between dark and light. Star Wars was Mollo’s first film, and he felt that his total inexperience with sci-fi as a genre worked in his favor in creating costumes that felt unique and authentic.
Travel Dress
We first meet Leia in this flowing white dress with a high neckline. It appears at first to be an immediate contradiction to my previous claims about the practicality of Leia’s clothing choices, but let’s be fair. When Leia got dressed this morning, she wasn’t exactly planning to be imprisoned by the empire, and it’s not like she had time to change her outfit while Darth Vader was boarding her ship. The white color and demure silhouette also give Leia an innocent appearance, hiding her true capabilities in battle until she needs them most.
While we’re here, I can’t talk about Princess Leia without addressing her iconic space buns. While it’s not technically part of her costume, Leia’s hair is the defining feature of her look in the first film. The style, which I believe was created in collaboration between hairdresser Pat McDermott and George Lucas, was inspired by the female revolutionaries of turn-of-the-century Mexico. Some have credited military leader Clara de la Rocha as the inspiration for the unique style.
Celebration Dress
When Leia finally gets a chance to change clothes, she puts on a different white dress to celebrate the Rebellion’s victory. The scoop neckline, sheer sleeves and silver necklace make the dress less casual and more appropriate for the festivities. This is one of the few times we see Leia in an outfit that prioritizes form over function, but it makes sense for the occasion. I don’t really like this dress because, frankly, I think it looks like a knockoff Halloween costume. But I’ll be gracious and let it slide because I know this film had a budget of approximately three nickels and whatever George Lucas could dig out from under his couch cushions.
I did find a really cool video about the extensive restoration process this costume went through after being used from the film, posted by none other than legendary Star Wars fan Adam Savage.
The Empire Strikes Back
My (and pretty much everybody’s) favorite film of the original trilogy, The Empire Strikes Back (1980) takes on a darker tone than the previous film. It also tells a story on a larger scale, taking us to a whole host of new planets as we get to know the larger Star Wars galaxy. For Leia, more planets means more outfits, once again designed by Mollo.
Hoth Outfit
This is my all-time favorite Leia outfit. On the frozen world of Hoth, Leia trades her flowing dresses for a practical insulated jumpsuit that’s more suited for life on the run with the Rebel Alliance. While this is a much more casual outfit than we’re used to seeing Leia in, she’s still instantly recognizable in her signature white.
Cloud City Outfit
A massively underrated Princess Leia look is this earth-toned ensemble she dons while visiting Bespin. I love the contrast between the structured tunic and the flowing cape, and the designs on the cloak speak to the circular motif present all over Cloud City. I also think it’s worth noting that this is the first time we see Leia in a color other than white. This could reflect how out of place and uncomfortable Leia feels in this unfamiliar place, surrounded by people she’s not sure she can trust. I suspect the introduction of color is also meant to help Leia stand out against the all-white backdrop of Cloud City. The lack of contrast is very apparent when she changes back into her white jumpsuit from earlier.
Return of the Jedi
The third and final installment of the original trilogy marked a shift in Leia’s character. She’s portrayed in this film as more feminine and empathetic, a far cry from the snarky, often angry character we met in the original film. The costumes in Return of the Jedi (1983) were designed by Aggie Guerard Rodgers, also known for her work on Beetlejuice (1988).
The Gold Bikini
What can I possibly say about this outfit that hasn’t already been said? Carrie Fisher said that one of the ways this film made Leia more feminine was to take off her clothes, and unfortunately I think that’s true. Something I’ve always liked about Star Wars is that it allows its female characters to be more than sex symbols. But it’s impossible to ignore that the most iconic outfit to appear in the franchise is, ultimately, a cheap excuse to show off the leading woman’s body.
I’m not saying it’s a bad costume. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, I actually really like it. I love how the purple and green contrast with the gold, and I would love to steal those boots for myself. This is also one of my favorite hairstyles on Leia, but all of that is soured by the fact that this outfit has been forced on her.
Rebel Uniform
After the Jabba’s Palace fiasco, it’s refreshing to once again see Leia in normal clothes. Her hair is up and out of the way, and she’s ready to take on the Empire once again.
Forest Camouflage
When the rebels head to the forest moon of Endor, Leia throws on this camouflage poncho to better blend in with her surroundings while sneaking around the forest. the light blue pants kind of defeat that purpose, but they do help to distinguish her from Luke, who wears a very similar costume while on Endor. Luke’s poncho is also more brown compared to the brighter greens on Leia, but in fast-paced chase scenes it helps to have an extra visual cue to tell them apart.
Ewok Dress
After befriending Wicket, Leia joins the Ewoks in Bright Tree Village. It’s not really clear where this dress came from (do the Ewoks just have human-sized clothes on hand?), but I digress. It’s actually very pretty, and I think it serves as a great counterweight to the bikini situation from earlier in the film. This dress feels comfortable and carefree, almost like something a woodland fairy princess might wear. This dress is soft and feminine without being sexualized, which is a nice place to leave Leia’s character at the end of the trilogy. It’s also the only time we ever see Leia without some kind of updo, symbolizing how victory over the empire means she can finally (literally and metaphorically) let her hair down. The galaxy is saved, and she no longer needs to carry the weight of the universe on her shoulders.
Something that I love about Leia is that, in spite of her impeccable fashion sense, she’s not defined by the clothes she wears. I love a beautiful, intricate costume as much as anyone, but sometimes it’s nice to see a female character who just wears normal (ish) clothes. Leia is a badass sci-fi heroine, but she still manages to feel down-to-earth even in a galaxy far, far away.
Sartorial Onscreen 
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